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วันเสาร์ที่ 31 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Extreme - More than Words Live - First Time Ever Played on TV
วันศุกร์ที่ 30 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Procedure For Correctly Making Concrete Cube Samples For Strength Testing
In order to check concrete strength on site to ensure the batch meets the specified strength it is essential that the cubes are made to the correct standard. The cubes must be made in accordance with British Standard (BS) 1881:1983 Testing Concrete.
Equipment necessary:
Mould for making test cube
Spanners
Scoop
Steel float or trowel
Compacting bar
Shuttering Oil
Curing tank
Bucket to collect sample
As soon as the truck arrives on site a sample should be taken prior to any water being added to the mix. Take the sample to your designated area set aside for making the cubes. You should already have assembled the moulds so that you can immediately start to fill them while the concrete is still workable. It is also a good idea to have coated the inside of the moulds with shuttering oil to enable easy disassembly later.
Generally for each concrete sample 3 moulds should be made in order that the concrete can be tested after 7 and 28 days and the 3rd mould can be held as a spare.
Using the scoop, fill each mould up to about a third full and compact the concrete with the compacting bar with uniform strokes over the area of the mould. Generally up to 35 strokes are necessary to fully compact and ensure there are no air voids but be careful not to over compact as this may segregate the aggregate from the cement.
Next Fill the moulds up to about two thirds full and repeat the necessary compaction before filling to the top and compacting again. Once the filled cube moulds are sufficiently compacted finish the surface of the concrete with the trowel and clean the excess concrete from the mould.
Ensure the individual cubes are identifiable with appropriate labels which should at the very minimum show the date, time and cube ID number.
Once the cubes are cured they should be covered with a damp mat and stored for 16 to 24 hours in an area where the temperature is between 20 and 30 degrees celsius.
Once the necessary time has passed and the cubes have achieved the necessary strength to be de-moulded without damaging the sample, they should be de-moulded, labelled with a marker or crayon and placed in the curing tank at a temperature of 27-30 degrees celsius until they are ready to be tested
Once de-moulding is complete the moulds should be cleaned, reassembled and made ready for the next set of samples.
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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 29 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Marble City Company- Diamond Certified Video Profile
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วันพุธที่ 28 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
YYCCC 2010-12-06 Calgary City Council - December 6, 2010
วันอังคารที่ 27 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
HK-500 Stationary Block Making Machine
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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 25 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Iggy Pop repoman
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วันเสาร์ที่ 24 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Six Tips on How to Build a Basement Bar in Your Home
Many of you may have a little basement in your home. Some use it as their laundry area. Some use it as their mini gym. Others use it as an extension room for house guests. But what if none of these ideas draw your attention? Yet you cannot get over the fact that your basement is not being used to its maximum potential. Then you realized that whenever you have huge celebrations at home, your living room is just not enough. Then you start thinking why not convert your vacuous basement into a bar? Bingo! So here are a few tips for you on how to build a basement bar in your home.
1. Visualize - Visualize your idea of a basement bar in your mind. This should be a good starting point on how to build a basement bar. Before anything else, you got to imagine how it is going to look like. Draw it on a sheet of paper. Go down to your basement and figure out which corner you want to put the bar.
2. The Plan - Make a basement bar checklist. After you got a basement drawing in your sketch pad, you should be able to imagine the materials and tools to use in setting it up. Other than wood, you should be able to see things like electrical wiring, lighting fixtures, framing, plumbing, and all other things you can see through in your sketch.
3. Inspiration - Check out your friends' basement bars. Supposing you still do not have a clear view of what needs to consider in this project. You may want to visit your friends who have basement bars. And do not ever forget to ask them pointers in how to build a basement bar. That is probably one of the most reliable help you could get. For sure, your friends would be more than willing to share their experience.
4. Basement Bar Photos - Check out home design magazines. This medium is another source of ideas in how to build a basement bar. The thing is that your plans of realizing this project only happens when you have your concept clear. These types of magazines help you imagine what you hope to achieve with your basement bar because they show pictures. This is a big advantage especially if your grades in art class were very low.
5. The Right Materials - Materials to use. Yes of course you got to know this. In the planning stage, materials and labor cost are usually what determines a project's cost. At this point, it is not enough to just know the basics how to build a basement bar. Extra knowledge is a very important factor as well.
6. Supplies and equipment. Common sense and experience will tell you that when you see a bar, there is always liquor and most often music. Although this can be thought of in details when your bar is almost finished, it may help to include this in your preparations. Maybe know a little bit about what brand of wine, brandy, or whatever liquor you know that can suit your taste. Perhaps your preference has a lot to do with the mood you set in your bar. Then of course knowing a little bit about music equipment can lead you to understand what type of speakers you need to install. Acoustic insulation is also a consideration if you want music piped in to your basement bar.
Now that you have the design plan listed out for your little project, it is time to work on it. The good thing about this is that you can do it yourself. If you have no background in carpentry or interior designing, this is a good time to learn. Then maybe, in the future, you might want to share your experience. You might want to return the favor by giving your personal tips on how to build a basement bar.
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วันศุกร์ที่ 23 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Bob Marley and The Wailers -400 Years
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วันพุธที่ 21 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Paul Wall-Break Em' Off(Yung Gunna Remix)
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Building a Metal Lean to Shed - Advantages and Disadvantages
Metal sheds are more economical than those made of other materials. They can be availed in a wide range of sizes, styles, and colors. Make sure to check product warranties by the manufacturer before you purchase metal lean to shed.
You will need some hand tools to put everything together such as a Phillips screwdriver, a stepladder, and a pair of pliers. It would be easier to do the construction with the help of another party. You may hire a contractor or ask a family member to take on the project with you. The building process usually involves these five steps:
1. Laying out the foundation
2. Anchoring the shed floor to the foundation
3. Setting up and constructing the shed walls
4. Roofing
5. Installation of windows, shelves, and/or ramps
A metal lean to shed is more likely to endure the toughest wind conditions if it is attached by screws to a concrete foundation. You may pour a concrete slab over a flat ground surface to serve as the foundation. A wood deck or floor may also be used. Sometimes, manufacturers also make available shed floor frame foundation kits, which you may use.
Arrow Sheds is a leading supplier of prefabricated metal lean to shed kits. It also manufactures individual stand-alone sheds in different sizes and styles. BettyMills.com is one of the places online where you can find a wide range of choices in metal lean to sheds.
Advantages
A metal lean to shed is advantageous to anyone who plans to apportion extra storage space by building a garden shed outdoors. Aluminum, corrugated iron, and galvanized steel are commonly used for construction, including in shed building, because they resist damage caused by harsh weather conditions, fire, rotting, and pests. If you are looking for strength and durability, a metal lean to shed is for you.
Metal is a lot cheaper compared to other materials like wood and vinyl. Metal lean to shed kits are widely available from dealers of outdoor and home equipment. These kits are easy to assemble and come with specific instructions. All the parts you need to set up are included; pre-cut and properly labelled. You can order them online and have them delivered to your home.
Disadvantages
One main disadvantage of a metal lean to shed is that it is prone to rusting, especially if the material used is un-galvanized steel. Aluminum sheds, a relatively more expensive alternative, are less at risk of corrosion. Metal is not a good option if the shed is to be set up in a high-traffic area. Thin metal sheets may dent upon the accumulation of snow or ice. They are also likely to suffer damage from heavy winds.
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วันจันทร์ที่ 19 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
วันอาทิตย์ที่ 18 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Nick Cave - I let adulation in
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วันเสาร์ที่ 17 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Concrete Footer Part 1
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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 15 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
An central attending at a ability bulb agent basement at Deer Creek Station
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วันอังคารที่ 13 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
How to Erect a Concrete Column
Concrete columns are used for carrying loads of a building. They transfer the same to a suitable soil bearing capacity. They carry loads horizontally, vertically and laterally. They can be erected as free standing, used for hanging gates. Alternatively they can be incorporated within the walls of a building structure. Concrete columns are made from steel and concrete cast in a form work. These are done in circular, rectangular or square shapes.
In erecting concrete columns the load to be carried is considered. This determines the size of column and type of reinforcement to use. The process of erection commences by setting up a base. A pit is first excavated to a suitable soil bearing capacity in depth. Blinding to the pit is done to protect the soil touching the steel reinforcements. When the base is cast, steel is exposed. This reinforcement is used as starter bars for the column.
Form work of the required column size is formed first aside. The already tied steel is joined together with the starter bars. This ensures the column starts from the ground upwards. The steel should be free from oils and rust. Use binding wire to tie together all steel. Its important to cast concrete in lifts. This should not exceed two thousand five hundred millimeters in height. When the steel work is complete, then form work assembly starts.
The form work for erecting a column is fixed by opening the sides. Its then slid to have the steel inside the box. Once the box is upright, the form work is then fastened and supported on all sides. Concrete is then poured and vibrated until it reaches the top of the box. It is left for seven days. Curing is done from the top. After seven days the form work is then removed to expose the cast column. This is continuously cured for another Seven days.
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Kings of Leon - Trani [Hollywood Bowl 7/12/10]
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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 11 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
ARXX Walls and Foundations 4 of 10
วันเสาร์ที่ 10 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
GUERILLA MAAB - Fondren and Main - Feat. DJ Screw
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วันศุกร์ที่ 9 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Easy Concrete Demolition & Rock Breaking by Dexpan Non Explosive Controlled Blasting Demolition
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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 8 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
How to Lay Hardcore Under Concrete Floor Beds
Hardcore is the material put under floors. It is used as a sub base after building the foundation wall to make up levels before casting the ground floor concrete slab. The recommended is hard stone ballast or quarry waste that should not pass a sieve of more than six inches when broken down. This shall be free of weeds, roots, vegetable soil, clay, black cotton soil or other unsuitable materials. Broken stones or brick cuttings can also be used as hardcore.
To lay hardcore under floor beds, use well graded smaller pieces mixed with fine materials. This will give a dense compact mass after consolidation. This shall be laid in layers not exceeding ten inches of consolidated thickness. Sufficient fine materials shall be added to each layer to give a gradation necessary to obtain a solid compact mass after rolling. A ten tonne smooth wheeled or two tone vibrating roller should be used to compact each layer.
Compact each layer with eight passes of the roller when laying hardcore under floor beds. Add sufficient water with every pass to obtain maximum compaction. To each layer add a fine layer of sand or quarry dust forced into the hardcore by a rolling vibrator. All the materials used must always be dry to avoid caking or stickiness. This may allow pockets of air or free spaces. This may sink when the hardcore is loaded with weight. If the sand is absorbed into the holes between hardcore then keep compacting.
Thoroughly compact the hardcore filling under floor beds until sand is not absorbed. The top surface should be made level. The levels are done or graded to the required falls. After this is done a blinding layer of similar broken materials is added. This is of at least one inch in thickness. A ten tonne roller is used to smoothen the surface. This mass of hardcore is now ready for anti termite, damp proofing and mesh reinforcement material before concreting the ground floor slab.
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วันพุธที่ 7 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
INTERIOR DECORATIVE CONCRETE STONE DESIGNS
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วันจันทร์ที่ 5 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Laminate Flooring How To - Covering Concrete Stairs With Laminate
You have a beautiful laminate floor and you're wondering if you should finish the concrete stairs in laminate to give the space a cohesive, designer feel. First of all, is it possible? Can you cover concrete with laminate? The answer is yes. In fact, if you've ever covered wooden stairs, the process is similar, except that the nosing installation is a little trickier.
What You'll Need
To accomplish this task you'll need:
PL200 or stronger construction glue
Skill saw for cutting laminate
Chop saw for cutting metal nosings
drill with a concrete bit
electric screwdriver
plastic plugs
broom
I recommend using metal nosings as these are stronger, and will hold better on concrete stairs. (Laminate nosings that come in a kit are also trickier as the tracks need to be in exactly the right spot, and there isn't a lot of standardization--every manufacturer makes a slightly different size/style of laminate nosing).
What to Do
Start by sweeping the stairs and cleaning up any shavings or dust. You'll need a clean surface for the glue to adhere properly to the concrete and laminate. Once the area is clean, start with the risers first.
Measure, mark and cut each laminate plank to fit the riser with the groove side facing downwards. Glue the riser and the back of the plank, and secure the plank in place, again, making sure that the groove is at the bottom of the riser. Once all the risers are glued, you're ready to start on the nosings.
Begin by measuring and cutting the metal nosings to fit. Mark on the concrete where the screws will go, then using a drill with a concrete bit, drill the holes. Place a plastic plug in each hole. Number the nosings so that you match each one to the correct tread when you screwnail them in later.
Measure, mark and cut each laminate plank to fit the tread with the groove side facing inwards to meet the bottom of the riser. Arranging the planks so that the groove on the riser meets the groove on the tread makes for a clean, professional edge in the corner. Glue the tread and the back of the plank and secure the plank in place, making sure that groove faces inward.
Stair nosings are intended to finish the look by capping the lip of the stair. Unfortunately, with concrete stairs this can be a little tricky as the lip on the stairs is often thicker than the actual stair nosing. If this is the, cut a laminate plank so that it's wide enough to cover the the concrete lip, and glue it to the face of the lip on each tread. Then secure the nosing over top by screwnailing it through the laminate tread into the pre-drilled holes in the concrete. (If you've already covered the lip-face with laminate, you can glue the nosing to the laminate for extra adherance, and then screwnail the top of the nosing into place.)
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Davos Annual Meeting 2010 - Rethinking Compensation Models
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วันเสาร์ที่ 3 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Birdman Ft. Lil Wayne - I Run This Bitch with lyrics
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วันศุกร์ที่ 2 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
How to Build an Outdoor Pizza Oven
If there is one smell that will bring everyone running, it's that of fresh pizza. Admit it, your mouth just started watering a little. Now imagine the smell of fresh pizza intermingled with that of your grill.
Drool!
Learning how to build an outdoor pizza oven is a pretty simple job. It will take time and some sweat but the pay off is certainly worth it as you become the king griller of the neighborhood.
The first thing you need is a flat level surface to start building. If you have a cement patio you're set. If not you might want to pour a slab of concrete.
Pouring a slab of concrete doesn't take much except time.
All you need to do is remove a layer of topsoil slightly larger than the foundation footprint.
Level the area that's going to be poured.
Build a framework for the slab. All you need are some 4-inch tall strips of wood squared and level set in the footprint.
Pour the concrete.
Use a scrap piece of wood longer than the pour to scrape and level out the fresh cement by raking it along the framework.
Let it dry at least 24 hours.
Congratulations! You've now built a great sturdy base for the new outdoor pizza oven.
You'll need a lot of bricks for this baby so have the hardware store deliver them as close to the concrete pad as possible. You want to build an oven, not tote bricks from one end of the yard to the other.
You don't need anything gigantic for a perfect pizza. A simple 36-inch square base is more than large enough.
Start stacking bricks to make a nice square pattern. Make sure nothing is loose or wobbly.
Once you've stacked up to a height of about 30 inches it's time to build the firebox.
Simply lay a single layer of bricks stacked on end along the outside edge of the back and sides of your oven. Leave a spacing of 4 bricks along the back wall. So the smoke has a way out of the firebox.
Once you've finished stacking the bricks cut a piece of sheet metal to size and place it on top of the wall.
Stack another layer of bricks on top of the sheet metal. Once again stack bricks lengthwise along the back and sides of the pizza oven. And lay another piece of sheet metal on top of them. This will be the oven portion of your outdoor pizza oven.
Add another layer of bricks on top of the sheet metal and voila! Your outdoor pizza oven is complete. Just light the fire. Get the pizza oven up to temperature and slide in a fresh pizza, calzone, or whatever will make the neighbors jealous.
Learning how to build an outdoor pizza oven is time consuming but so worth it once you taste that first slice of fresh pie. The neighbors will be beating down your door for the great taste of homemade outdoor pizza.
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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 1 ธันวาคม พ.ศ. 2554
Recollections of the Yellow House -- Monteiro (1989)
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