วันอังคารที่ 3 เมษายน พ.ศ. 2555
Cob Builder PART 5 - Whacka
วันเสาร์ที่ 31 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Let's Play Broken Sword: Shadow of the Templars Walkthrough - allotment 1
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วันจันทร์ที่ 26 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Gravel Driveways Are a Great Alternative to Concrete Or Asphalt
Gravel driveways have a kind of elegance about them that concrete or asphalt fails to show. Unlike gravel, which is much more flexible in that respect, these materials are difficult to correct if they were not laid properly to begin with.
How many stately homes have you seen in movies where a limousine drives up the sweeping driveway made of concrete or even asphalt? It's the characteristic crunch or gravel under car tyres that typify those movie scenes. Perhaps that's why we associate gravel driveways with class and style.
A gravel driveway isn't difficult to prepare and fill. In many ways it's less difficult than concrete, which is messy and difficult to achieve a great looking surface with. Asphalt is easier to lay, and easier to have looking good, but it's costly and it can be a bit messy too. Concrete and asphalt are not particularly easy to maintain either.
Concrete and asphalt do score well when it comes to cracking as a result of extreme frost and cold, but gravel scores even better. Heavy rains just drain away with a gravel driveway while concrete and asphalt need drainage considerations built in from the start.
Gravel driveways don't have to be boring. They can be made from a variety of different coloured stone of reds, blues and greys. You can even use different coloured stone to form patterns on large areas to provide a bit of contrast.
It's important that you prepare properly for any gravel driveways you plan to create. As with other surface materials, a rule of thumb guide is the more heavy use your driveway is likely to get, the deeper and more robust the driveway should be.
In other words, if your gravel driveways will only have people walking on them, then you can get away with a relatively shallow depth. If a car will travel on it, then it needs to be deep enough to cope with the additional wear and tear.
Gravel driveways should be prepared by having the drive marked out and dug down to a depth of about 150 millimetres, or six inches. At that point, drive a wooden peg into the dug out ground. If it is difficult to drive down further, then the base is solid and firm. If not, you may have to dig deeper. If you encounter any soft spots they may also need digging out.
You should lay a base before laying the gravel. Scalping stone is leftover quarry material and makes an excellent inexpensive base. Order it during dry weather as rain will add considerably to the weight, which is what you will charged on. The scalping stone should be compacted by being vibrated in to a depth of at least 75 millimetres.
Your driveway is now ready to accept the gravel. There are various sizes of gravel stone you can use. A size of 10 millimetres is probably too small as the stones will become wedged into most car threads. Stone of 40 millimetres size is generally too large, so the best all round size to use is gravel of 20 millimetres. Gravel driveways are a joy to have, easy to maintain and will look great for a long time to come.
วันศุกร์ที่ 23 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
1.75" Black Powder Cannon 1
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วันอังคารที่ 20 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Pervious Concrete at UNH Stormwater Center
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KFC vs JOLLIBEE Nobody Showdown (your millionaire mindset starts with www.ca2020.net)
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วันศุกร์ที่ 16 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Basics of Post Tensioning - Stressing
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Mike Aitken and Tom Dugan ODSY VISION: TRAVEL LOG - IDAHO / MONTANA
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Elite Crete Systems Oklahoma- Copper Reflector -rejuvenate beat formed & acerbic decrepit concrete
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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 11 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Selecting the Color for Granite Countertops - Granite Shorts Ep.6 - www.marble.com
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"Shifty" Powers Tribute
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Magic Trowel Concrete Resurfacing Video—ConcreteNetwork.com
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Paul Wall & Lil KeKe Rap City Freestyle(official video)
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วันจันทร์ที่ 5 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Robot Millennium tutorial 1
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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 4 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
What Pole Barns Building Suppliers Don't Want You to Know
Most pole barn kits utilize the simple construction technique of post and beam construction, which anyone can do on their own with a little basic carpentry experience. Don't have the expertise? Then hire a carpenter by the hour to help you plan and build your project. Simple pole building projects can be constructed over a weekend if you have pre-arranged all of your basic building materials and have several friends or family members available to help you with the heavy lifting. There are 3 basic steps to constructing your own pole barn:
STEP 1 - POLE BARNS PLANNING. You'll need to decide how big your pole building will need to be, and then adjust your overall measurements slightly to be a multiple of standard building material supply lengths. This design tip alone will save you hundreds of saw cuts and carpentry time. You'll also need to decide if your pole barn will require concrete slab foundation inside, or if a dirt floor is all you need. If you plan to construct your own pole barn we highly recommend you spend the $10 to purchase a decent pole barn plan - this will save you many headaches and dramatically speed up your construction time.
STEP 2 - POLE BUILDING SUPPLIES. All of the necessary supplies for a basic pole barn can be sourced from your local building supply store. You'll need some concrete mix for the post footings, and more if you decide to pour a concrete floor slab. You'll also need treated posts, your preferred siding material, 2 x 4's, nails, fasteners, and your preferred roofing material. To speed things up you can pre-order roof trusses, or buy gusset fasteners to build your own.
STEP 3 - RAISING THE BARN! Once the concrete has set in the footings you are ready to begin framing the post skeleton of your building plan. This is a very simple process that is simply repeated until all the post framing is completed. Once the frame is in place you can attach the outer siding to the frame. From there you can move to the roofing truss installation, roof framing and roof finishing. Popular choices for both siding and roofing are metal because its light, durable, cheap, and won't rot or rust over its lifetime.
There you have it! Within a weekend you can construct and raise your very own pole barn. For those of you that might need a little more direction or help we strongly suggest you follow a plan for building pole barns, or even consider ordering a pre-cut pole barn kit.
[ -- ARTICLE USE POLICY -- You are permitted to freely copy and use this article on your website, RSS, or e-zine ONLY IF the article text is not changed or altered in any way and the hyperlinks inside the article are active and working. Sites found violating this reprint condition will be subject to legal action for copyright infringement. When using this article you may remove this legal notice -- ]
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วันเสาร์ที่ 3 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Concrete Slab How To Part 1
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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 1 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2555
Musique Concrete
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The Wall (1962) / Berlin Wall Documentary Film Video
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My Devil Years
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Battleme Burn This Town
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How To Remove Rust From Concrete
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วันพุธที่ 22 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2555
Chapter 55-56 - Tess of the d'Urbervilles by Thomas Hardy
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Flintknapping - Blade Cores - arena platforms - allotment 3
วันจันทร์ที่ 20 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2555
Concrete Planer
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Working at Height - How to Develop a Rescue Plan
Rescue plans don't have to be complex.
Employers should implement a rescue plan that includes procedures for:
Preventing prolonged suspension
Performing rescue and treatment as quickly as possible
Identifying suspension trauma signs and symptoms
Management responsibility for safety needs to give careful consideration to the methodology of rescuing a fallen operative. Such considerations might include:
Dialing 999(911). - Often we think of the word 'rescue' as calling 999(911), but calling the local fire brigade does not constitute an effective rescue plan. Response times can be too slow, and not all fire brigades have the capability to rescue from height.
Crane Man Basket - This option has severe limitations, the main one being time. Target time from 'Man Down' to being recovered needs to be no more than five to ten minutes maximum. Other restrictions and shortcomings that make this a less than ideal solution are - the crane is out of action for some reason, e.g. it may be:
winded-off
the driver may be away from the crane
rescue by crane is limited to building facades and often is not able to provide access and rescue internal to the structure
the crane man basket may be in the wrong location.
Mobile Elevated Working Platforms (M.E.W.P.'s) - This option for rescue can have its limitations such as available access and height restriction as the casualty may be at a height greater than the reach of the M.E.W.P.
Rope Access Rescue - Rope rescue requires a technical competency which demands a high level of training and re-training to acquire and retain this skill set. Given the limited time to complete a rescue, trained rope rescue personnel would need to be on stand-by and within close proximity to any incident. Donning the necessary kit to carry out a rope rescue can also be time consuming given that every minute the casualty is hanging is critical. Perhaps the greatest restriction is that it is a skill to which only a few would, or could be trained.
Third Party Rescue Systems - There are a number of considerations to take into account when considering third part rescue systems. In every consideration TIME is the critical factor. The speed with which the system can be deployed and the rescue carried out is vitally important, as is the SIMPLICITY and EASE of use so that a typical operative can deploy and carry out a rescue after being trained. Remember, whichever methodology you choose, the target time should be to rescue the casualty in under ten minutes.
Planning for Fall Protection must include Rescue - Having a rescue plan is just as important as having a fall protection plan. No site should have one without the other. Just putting together a fall protection program without rescue is only doing half the job. The onus is on the employer to ensure that the suspended operative is rescued quickly. That means ensuring that for anyone who works at height, there is a rescue plan.
Fall protection must include an emergency rescue plan - How will you rescue an operative who has fallen and is suspended in a fall-arrest system? Answering some basic questions can help in developing a rescue plan.
Developing a Rescue Plan - A rescue plan requires answers to the following questions.
If an operatives fall is arrested, can they be rescued in under ten minutes?
How will you know that someone has fallen?
Will someone see it happen?
Co-workers
Other trades
Plant personnel
Members of the public
What communication systems will be used between the suspended operative and the rescue team?
Voice
Whistle
Mobile Phone
Who will the Co-worker call?
Nearest co-workers
Supervisor
Site Management
999(911) Fire /ambulance where available
Is information available? Who and how will it be communicated?
Emergency phone numbers
Site address
Directions and access for ambulance/fire vehicle or other emergency services
Which floor/how high up
Operatives condition after fall
How will the safety of the rescuers be assured, as well as that of the suspended operative?
Are operatives trained and competent in the use of rescue equipment?
Is there sufficient number of trained personnel on-site?
Are rescue-training records kept up-to-date including any re-assessments?
Is the rescue equipment selected appropriate for the nature of the work?
What obstructions are in the way reaching the suspended operative?
Have assessments been made of anchor points?
Has consideration been given to the method of attaching to the casualty?
How will rescue workers get to the casualty?
Rescue Ladder System
Rescue Haul / Winch System
Keys to building and roof
Elevator
Pull casualty in through window or balcony
Pull casualty up to floor/slab/roof
Lower casualty to ground level
Climb / rappel down the building/structure
Aerial equipment from ground
Suspended access equipment
Crane Man Basket
How will rescue be assured within five minutes of the occurrence of a fall to minimize the risk of further injury or death due to suspension trauma? And, what rescue equipment is needed?
Rescue Ladder
Rescue Haul / Winch System
Suspended access equipment
Ropes
Aerial ladder truck
M.E.W.P. or scissor lift
Climbing / rope rescue equipment
Crane Man Basket
First aid kit
Stretcher available should casualty be seriously injured
What if the operative is injured?
Can the casualty still be rescued within five to ten minutes?
Is there a qualified first-aid er who understands suspension trauma and knows how to treat it?
Who and how will the emergency services and hospital be alerted?
How will the public be protected?
Assign someone to direct traffic
Set up barriers
How will the accident scene be protected?
Prevent further injury or damage
Set up barriers
Preserve wreckage
Aid investigation later
Are there other considerations?
Working alone
Language barrier
Unusual features of building/structure
Wind
Other hazards
No emergency services nearby
Distance from rescue teams
WARNING! An operative who has suffered a fall and is suspended in his harness is a true medical emergency. Just because they are hanging in a harness doesn't mean you have all day to perform the rescue. Rescue has to be planned, practiced and performed quickly and effectively or the victim may very well die before the rescue finally occurs.
If you're not going to give your employees the skills to perform rescue, then you might as well not even put them in the harness at all.
Practice can save lives Perhaps just as important as having a rescue plan in place is practicing the plan before a real-life fall occurs.
How will the operative call for help?
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วันอังคารที่ 14 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2555
SPM-I Must Be High
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วันอาทิตย์ที่ 12 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2555
Freeman's Mind: Episode 10 (Half-Life Machinima)
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Concrete Homes - Building with Concrete
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TermX bubbles beneath slab simulation_Training2_NEW.wmv
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วันพุธที่ 8 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2555
5682 Greenshade Road - Experience the Wonder of Pacific Ridge!
Ulduar (10) - Hodir (Widescreen HD) (May 28th, 2009)
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How to: Locate Rebar in Concrete application Ground Penetrating Radar
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Blackstar - Respiration ft. Common
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วันอังคารที่ 31 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
วันอาทิตย์ที่ 29 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
SAFE - 02 PT for Slabs: Watch & Learn
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วันเสาร์ที่ 28 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
Audi Big Game Commercial 2011 - Release the Hounds
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วันศุกร์ที่ 27 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
Concrete anchors
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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 26 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
Savannah Land Company, Tilt Up Wall, Savannah GA
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Big Chief "Eat Greedy Or Don't Eat At All" DVD
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วันจันทร์ที่ 23 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
Timber Framed Cabin " 12' Plates " Off-grid Homestead Project
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How to Pour Concrete, Make a Concrete Floor
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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 19 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
S.M.A.R.T. Goals
(excerpted from the Jim Rohn One-Year Success Plan)
Jim Rohn's Second Pillar of Success: Goal-Setting, Part Three - S.M.A.R.T. Goals
Hi, Jim Rohn here. As you know, we are focused on the Second Pillar of Success this month - Goal-Setting.
We have introduced the four main components of Goal-Setting:
1. Evaluation and Reflection.
The only way we can reasonably decide what we want in the future and how we will get there, is to first know where we are right now and secondly, what our level of satisfaction is for where we are in life. As we focus this month on goal-setting, our first order of business and our topic two weeks ago was evaluation and reflection.
2. Dreams and Goals.
What are your dreams and goals? Not related to the past or what you think you can get, but what you want. Have you ever really sat down and thought through your life values and decided what you really want? This isn't something that someone else says you should have or what culture tells us successful people do or have. These are the dreams and goals that are born out of your own heart and mind. These are the goals that are unique to you and come from who you were created to be and gifted to become. Last week we showed you exactly how to find out what you want from life.
3. S.M.A.R.T. Goals.
S.M.A.R.T. means Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Realistic, and Time-sensitive.
Specific: Don't be vague. Exactly what do you want?
Measurable: Quantify your goal. How will you know if you've achieved it or not?
Attainable: Be honest with yourself about what you can reasonably accomplish at this point in your life - along with taking into consideration your current responsibilities.
Realistic: It's got to be do-able, real and practical.
Time: Associate a timeframe with each goal. When should you complete the goal?
We will spend time this week looking at how to apply the S.M.A.R.T. test to your goals to make sure they are as powerful as they can be!
4. Accountability.
Think of the word "accountable." It means to "give an account." When someone knows what your goals are, they help hold you accountable. Whether it is someone else going through this program with you (have you thought about inviting a friend to join you on this one-year journey?) or just someone you can give the basic idea to, having a person who can hold you accountable will give you another added boost to getting your goals! Next week we will show you how to set up an accountability partner.
This week we will be discussing point 3 - S.M.A.R.T. Goals.
S.M.A.R.T. means Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Realistic, and Time-sensitive.
I really like this acronym S.M.A.R.T., because we want to be smart when we set our goals. We want to intelligently decide what our goals will be so that we can actually accomplish them. We want to set the goals that our heart conceives, that our mind believes and that our bodies will carry out. Let's take a closer look at each of the components of S.M.A.R.T. goals:
Specific: Goals are no place to waffle. They are no place to be vague. Ambiguous goals produce ambiguous results. Incomplete goals produce incomplete futures.
When we are specific, we harness the power of our dreams and set forces into action that empower us to achieve our goals. We then know exactly what it is we are shooting for. There is no question. As we establish our priorities and manage our time, we do so for a specific goal to achieve the results we expect. There is no wondering or guessing. The future is locked into our minds and we see it - specifically - and that is powerful! Never underestimate just how important it is to have very specific, concrete goals. They act as magnets that draw you toward them! A S.M.A.R.T. goal is specific.
Measurable: Always set goals that are measurable. I would say "specifically measurable" to take into account our principle of being specific as well. Our goals should be such that we know when we are advancing and by how much. Whether it is by hours, pounds, dollars or whatever, we should be able to see exactly how we are measuring up as we proceed through the journey of life using our goals. Could you imagine if you didn't measure your goals? You would never know which way you were going or even if you were going anywhere! A S.M.A.R.T. goal is measurable.
Attainable: One of the detrimental things that many people do - and they do it with good intentions - is to set goals that are so high they are unattainable. Yes, it is very important to set big goals that cause your heart to soar with excitement, but it is also imperative to make sure that they are attainable. In the next section we talk about being realistic. So what does it mean to be attainable? An attainable goal is one that is both realistic but also attainable in a shorter period of time than what you have to work with. Now when I say attainable, I don't mean easy. Our goals should be set so they are just out of our reach; so they will challenge us to grow as we reach forward to achieve them. After the next paragraph, I will give you an example of a goal that is both attainable and realistic. A S.M.A.R.T. goal is attainable.
Realistic: The root word of realistic is "real." A goal has to be something that we can reasonably make "real" or a "reality" in our lives. There are some goals that simply are not realistic. You have to be able to say, even if it is a tremendously stretching goal, that yes, indeed, it is entirely realistic -- that you could make it. You may even have to say that it will take x, y, and z to do it, but if those happen, then it can be done. This is in no way to say it shouldn't be a big goal, but it must be realistic. This is to a great degree, up to the individual. For one person a goal may be realistic, but for another unrealistic. I would encourage you to be very honest with yourself as you do your planning and evaluation. Perhaps it would be good to get a friend to help you (as long as that friend is by nature an optimist and not a pessimist). This can go a long way toward helping you know what is realistic. A S.M.A.R.T. goal is realistic.
Example of Attainable and Realistic: Knowing that perhaps you could use a bit of help differentiating attainable and realistic, here is an example: You are overweight and have 150 pounds to lose to get to your proper weight. Is that goal attainable? Yes, considering that you also make it realistic. For example, it isn't realistic to think you can do it in 5 months. 18-24 months would be realistic (with hard work). Thus, losing 150 pounds in 2 years is both attainable and realistic, while losing 150 pounds in 5 months is neither attainable nor realistic.
Time: Every goal should have a timeframe attached to it. I think that life itself is much more productive for us as humans because there is a timeframe connected to it. Could you imagine how much procrastination there would be on earth if people never died? We would never get "around to it." We could always put it off. One of the powerful aspects of a great goal is that it has an end, a time in which you are shooting to accomplish it. You start working on it because you know there is an end. As time goes by you work because you don't want to get behind. As it approaches, you work diligently because you want to meet the deadline. You may even have to break down a big goal into different measured parts time frames. That is okay. Set smaller goals and work them out in their own time. A S.M.A.R.T. goal has a timeline.
Be sure to spend some reflection time this week to make sure your goals fit the S.M.A.R.T. parameters. Go through the reflection questions below and the action points associated with them. Doing so will put a real engine in your goals and make them charged with power to help you accomplish your dreams.
Until next week, let's do something remarkable!
Jim Rohn
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How abounding workers does it booty to stop a spinning accurate buffer...
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วันอังคารที่ 17 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
วันจันทร์ที่ 16 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
Dragon Age Origins - The Gauntlet - Bridge Puzzle
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วันเสาร์ที่ 14 มกราคม พ.ศ. 2555
Mother Nature's Power and Devastation - Almost 250 Dead as Tornadoes Ravage South
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Foundations - What You Need to Know
OK then, you have done your site investigation, the outline planning is through and you are ready to start designing your foundations. Here's what you need to know.
There are five main types of foundation common to low-rise buildings within which category domestic housing falls. What type of ground you are building on will determine what type of foundation you will need to use.
Foundations and how they work.
· Trench Fill
· Strip Foundation
· Wide Strip Foundation
· Raft Foundation
· Piled Foundation
One Important note. When you expose your trench you need to get building control, NHBC or an independent structural engineer to inspect your ground prior to pouring your foundations. Forgetting to do this could mean digging up your foundations as a worst case, especially if the ground is not suitable for the type of foundation you intend to pour.
Stay safe get your inspections done.
Trench Fill.
Trench fill refers to a technique used to fill up deep foundations trenches. What happens is this, you go to site and dig out for your foundations, but you end up about 1600 or perhaps even 2000mm below ground level. Well obviously you don't want to fill all of that depth with good strong foundation concrete, so you order a weak concrete mix from your ready mix company and pour that into the trench until you reach the depth at which you propose to lay your foundation concrete.The trench fill needs to be only as strong as a good supporting soil, to provide a suitable base for the strip foundation.
Strip Foundation.
A strip foundation is the simplest form of house foundation. It consists of a Gen 1 grade concrete laid to a width of 650m wide and usually to a depth of 350mm, with reinforced steel to either top or bottom of the foundation or in some cases both. It is preferable to have an engineer design the foundation for you, and provide you with dimensions prior to starting. Strip foundations are being replaced with wide strip foundations and are now relegated to supporting internal walls within the dwelling.
Wide Strip Foundations.
Wide strip foundations are similar to ordinary strip foundations except that they are wider. They are made wider in order to spread the load over more area of soil. The wide strip foundation is usually used in poorer bearing soil conditions.Wide strip foundations are usually 1 m wide x 450 mm deep, with reinforced steel to either top or bottom of the foundation or in some cases both, although an engineer can specify other dimensions depending on ground conditions and the load being imposed onto the foundations.
Raft Foundations.
Basically this is a slab of concrete laid over the base of the house with reinforced steel supporting the concrete. While the raft foundation is still used it is slowly going out of fashion, as there is a tendency for the raft to tilt in very poor soil conditions.
Piled Foundations.
As good quality sites become scarce, the poor weak soils that previously had been unexploited are now being built on. Weak or fluid soils or soils that contain a large proportion of compressible elements are prime candidates for piling.A pile is simply a square length of concrete with four reinforced steel bars running through it.
The pile is normally 350mm square depending on engineers specs and can be anything in length from 4m to 12m.The engineer specifies how many piles are required to support the house and where they need to be placed. This is normally at junctions and intersections within the house.Simple piles are driven into the ground using a ram. They are pounded down until they refuse. That is they won't go down any further.
Once all the piles are driven in the tops are cut off leaving only enough to steel exposed to tie into the beams. Next a mud-mat or 50mm layer of concrete is laid over the site. Then the line of the house is marked out as well as all internal load-bearing walls. Then a small retaining wall is built to either side of the piles in order to form a trench within which the foundations can be poured.
Once the block work has been completed, reinforced steel is placed into the area where the concrete will be poured and as per engineers designs is laid and tied to form a steel cage that forms the basis for the foundations. These are tied into the top of the piles. Once the steel has been laid, fitted and tied the concrete is then poured in the same manner as you would pour a strip or wide strip foundation.The concrete is agitated using a poker in order to get all excess air bubbles out of the foundation.
All you have to do now is wait until the concrete hardens and you can start building your house. Normally with piled foundations you use pre-stressed slabbed floors. This is a very safe and fast method of building.
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